Showing posts with label Varieties. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Varieties. Show all posts

Sunday, April 24, 2016

Variety: Harley



So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.


Harley
Harley's are not yet standardized by AFRMA. They are are newer variety, discovered in 2002. They are named after the first rat who started the line, a long haired rat named Harley that was found in a petshop. All the Harleys can be traced back to that start. Read about her story here!  and an interesting site on the first Harley's

Harley's have long wispy fur with no undercoat. Harley is a recessive gene.

From the very first moment I heard about Harley's I have been in love. They look so fluffy and adorable.  

Harley's are still a work in progress. And there are some known issues in some lines.
Some harley's seem to suffer skin issues and even scabs. This may mean a bit of extra care is required such as using coconut oil and many people suggest keeping them on a very low protein diet (14% or even lower). From my research it seems at first they needed to be kept on a very low protein diet (+/- 8%) but through better breeding they no longer need to be kept as drastically low.

There also seem to be some lines that have hormonal and temperament issues. This doesn't seem to be Harley related but more because of breeders in a rush to breed the new rare variety and not being as selective. -Get your rats from a good breeder!

There are also some issues with breeding. Some harley mothers seem to have trouble carrying babies or trouble nursing. Having a foster mom available is very helpful. All of my harley moms will be bred at the same time as a standard coat just incase.

Please note that lines are different. Some breeders are reporting issues others are having little to none. It is surely still a work in progress but they make for lovely adorable pets!


My Lines:

I have just started working with Harleys. My babies came from a great breeder in Indiana (HTG's Zoo). Amazing lines!

I am starting with a Mink Harley female I named Esme, and a Black Berk Harley/Dwarf carrier named Black Widow.
I am currently just happy & excited to work with harleys. I will not have any harley's available for a bit while I breed and test out temperament.

For those interested in Harley's and are patient, follow me on facebook for updates of availability or get on my waitlist now and I will contact you when I have available litters.



See more pics in Esme's photo album

Friday, April 15, 2016

Variety: Silvermane

Another post on some of my varieties, to recap:

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Silvermane is not currently standardized by AFRMA.

Silvermane is a quite new variety. It was discovered in 2012 by a Rattery in North Carolina named Squeaks and Nibbles Rattery. From there is was shared with a handful of select breeders as they worked to create a standard for it.

Silvermane's have a very unique look. Their coat should consist of one color with lighter hairs giving them a silvered look. Their base color can come in a variety of colors but looks best on darker shades.
The standard that most are going for is to have 50-75% of the hairs be "silvered". The nose/muzzle should be a bit dark giving them this really lovely look.

Silvermane babies coats start out as their color standard. Then around 12 weeks of age they begin to "silver". It seems some gradually lighten and others are much quicker.

It is currently believed that silvermane is a coat type and not a color. Some breeders were able to look at the hairs under a microscope and find that the hairs are not actually silvered but instead empty or clear!

Silvermane also seem to have a softer coat. Honestly it does feel so soft, I could just pet my guy forever lol

My Lines:

I have just very recently added Silvermane to my rattery. I am very excited to work with this variety and think it will be one of my very favorites. Ever since seeing the silvermane it has been one of my dream rats and I am just so in awe.

The start of my line is a male Dumbo Silvermane from Great Star Rattery. His name is Alucard.








Thursday, April 14, 2016

Variety: Dumbo

Another post on some of my varieties, to recap:

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Dumbo

AFRMA's Standard-
Dumbo rats to be shown in any recognized color, marking, or variety. The distinguishing feature being their low ear set. The ears are large and round, set low on the sides of the head. Head to form an equilateral triangle when viewed from above.

Dumbo is an ear type from a recessive gene. Gene: dudu

One of my first rats was a dumbo and I fell madly in love with the look right away!

There is some common myths that surround Dumbos.

Dumbos are not any sweeter, larger, etc... They are also not a different breed of rat.

Dumbos are still fancy rats, that same as standards. It is just a different ear type and nothing more.

Sadly alot of pet shops label dumbos as something different, likely to just make them seem more special and charge more. So you will often see stores selling fancy rats and dumbos.

In truth the ear types are labeled as dumbo and standard or top-eared.

My Lines:

I do have both top-eared and dumbos. I prefer dumbo myself so I favor them.

Some breeders do not like working with dumbos because it is difficult to get really good show quality ears sometimes.

I'm happy with my ears, shape & size and they have very limited folding.There is always room to improve!

My Siamese lines favor dumbo.



Dumbo VS Top-Eared

Dumbo



Top-Eared


See my post on checking ear type on pinkies HERE

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Variety: Siamese & Blue Point Siamese

So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Siamese

AFRMA's Standard for Seal Point Siamese:
Body color to be medium beige gradually and evenly shaded over saddle and hindquarters towards the belly, being darkest at base of tail. Tail color to extend down the length of the tail. Belly to be light beige. Points (nose, ears, feet, tail, and tail-root) to be rich dark sepia and to shade evenly into the body color. Eyes red or light ruby.

Gene: aa c(h)c(h)

AFRMA's Standard for Blue Point Siamese:
Body color to be ivory (the darker the better) with a warm blue cast gradually and evenly shaded over the saddle and hindquarters towards the belly, being darkest at the base of the tail. The points (nose, ears, feet, tail, and tail-root) to be a medium slate blue. They should not have a definite or distinct line of demarcation but rather a toning or merging with the remainder of the coat. There should be no white hairs, blotches, streaks, or mealiness of the color. Eyes red or ruby.

Gene: aa c(h)c(h) gg

Siamese are my pride and main focus of my breeder lines. I deeply love the Siamese look.

Siamese are little color changers! They start out life as dark, deeply riched colored and on their first molt the color fades and their points darken.

The Siamese pattern has a somewhat unusual cause. Called acromelanism, this pattern develops because it is thermo-sensitive (the darkness of the fur color is determined by the temperature of its environment). The colder it is, the darker the fur comes in. This is why those areas on the rat which are cooler (nose, ears, feet, tail) have darker fur than the body which is warm. It is also why Siamese rats are darker in the winter than they are in the summer.- AFRMA

This also marks a difference between himalayan rats vs siamese. As adults they can both look exactly the same. The only way to know for sure if you have a himalayan or a siamese is to know it's history and pedigree and/or seeing a picture of it as a baby. If it is white as a baby it is himalayan, if it has color it is siamese. It can get more complicated with some less than standard breedings with lighter colored siamese or marked siamese.

This is a good picture of how Siamese changes. This is all one rat, my boy Dean. As a baby he was quite dark as you can see!

Siamese Color Changing






Seal Point Siamese start off a warm beige as babies, while Blue Point Siamese begin life as a lovely gray (blue) color.





Blue Point Siamese

Marked Siamese





Marked Siamese:

Marked Siamese simply means it has markings; i.e. hooded, capped, etc...
Marked Siamese are kindof wonky during their molt and can be confusing as babies. I have had Blue Point Siamese babies that seemed all white but really did have light markings.

Marked Siamese often only have some points such as on their nose & bum but may have white feet. Their color still fades during a molt and they are left with points.

Marked Siamese

Marked Siamese are not ideal and not suitable for showing. They are more of a pet quality vs a show quality. It is just preference and there is nothing wrong with a marked Siamese as a pet :)

I currently do carry marked Siamese in my lines, more so with my Blue Points. I am working to improve my Siamese lines to better show quality.






My Lines:

Seal Point Siamese Dumbo Standard Coat & Blue Point Siamese Dumbo Standard Coat
They are red/ruby eyed.
I am currently working to phase all of my Siamese into dwarfs.




Two Blue Point Boys

Variety: Dwarfs!

So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Dwarfs

Dwarfs are currently not standardized by AFRMA. They are still a semi newer variety. You are not going to stumble upon a dwarf rat, you will need to get them from a breeder.

Dwarf rats are about 1/3 the size of standard rats. It is really quite a large difference.
Standard females weigh around 250-450g, standard males weight around 450-650g.
Both male and female dwarfs are around 115g fully grown. (some lines are a bit larger at around 120-125g)

Look wise, dwarfs seem to have larger eyes. Their tails are noticeable different being shorter and thinner. Dwarfs also have smaller feet.

It is a common misconception that dwarfs are just small rats or that they are created by breeding one small rat to another & continuing to choose the smallest rats to breed. This is very much NOT true. This also leads to people asking if they have a dwarf because their rat is small... again no. You would know if your rat is a dwarf because you got her from a breeder who bred dwarfs. I have also sadly seen people scammed and being sold what they were told were dwarfs when they most certainly are not. Be careful and don't get scammed, often these smaller rats are runts or sickly and are not good healthy rats.

In reality dwarfs are caused by the dwarf gene.
It is a recessive gene (meaning you need it coming from both parents to create dwarfs). So if you have dwarf mom + dwarf dad, you get all dwarf babies. If you have one dwarf parent and one standard parent, you will get all standard babies that carry dwarf. etc...

Dwarfs can come in any color/marking/coat/ear type variety. 


Are dwarfs any different temperament or health wise than standards?

No. It all depends on their lines, same as standards. If you have healthy, sweet/friendly lines then it does not matter if it is a dwarf or a standard.

Dwarfs do not have any unique temperament or health issues that are related or caused by them being a dwarf. They have the same average lifespan as standard sized rats.

That being said.... dwarfs being a newer-ish variety means that some lines still need some work and some breeders out there may have gotten swept up with the flavor of the month and may rushed to breed them rather than sort out and worked to improve the lines. If looking for a dwarf always look for a breeder who has experience and don't be afraid to ask about their lines temperament.

All of my dwarfs come from really great lines that have incredible temperaments!

But... on the positive side of things dwarfs seem to have a much lower risk of tumors. The gene causes a decrease of growth hormones also seems to effect tumors. - http://carcin.oxfordjournals.org/content/23/6/977.full.pdf

Differences in personality?

Dwarfs, both males and females seem to be much more active and energetic than standards.

One of my male dwarfs literally bounces off the sides of his cage. While my standard males the same age as him (2 weeks older) have slowed down and started on their lazy male ways, the dwarf is still insanely active. And all of my males are generally on the more active side.

I really must stress how bouncy and active they are. It is adorable and silly. But it does come with some requirements. Which brings us to.....

Handling and Housing needs:

Dwarfs really are quite tiny compared to standard rats, and as such more care is needed for them.

For housing I suggest a good sized cage with lots of climbing space. Wheels are a great idea for both genders. I'd suggest lots of toys, ledges, ropes, etc... You want a fun active space for them.

Bar spacing is recommended no larger than 1/2 inch.

With their smaller size they can be more delicate. I'd be more careful with small children handling them or with other pets.

I'd also like to share a very heart breaking story. I had a young dwarf girl named Rey. I let her have free range time with my standard females. I have a rat proof and what I thought was safe rat room. One day Rey was following the bigger girls climbing up a shelf, she slipped and fell. Rey passed away from the fall. It was very hard for me to lose her.

I have since completely re designed my rat room to make sure nothing like that would happen again. But I hope my story can cause caution and protect other babies from tragedy.

Being smaller makes rat proofing much more difficult.

Can dwarfs live in the same cages as standards?

There is definitely not a single answer for all rats. Every rat is different and has their own unique personalities.

IMO I would give caution and suggest NOT housing dwarfs with standards in most cases. The size difference is quite large, even more so between males. Imagine a 600g male vs a 115g dwarf! Even if everyone got along beautifully an accident could easily result in injury or death.

I would say it is likely safer for females. But in the end it all is about how your rats are, their personalities, etc... If you are even slightly unsure, I suggest not risking it. If there has ever been signs of aggression in your rats, don't risk it. etc....

All that being said, I have had dwarf females with my standard females. My females are all excellent temperament wise. I do not even need to do proper intros of new rats with them, they are very excepting and sweet. All of them also help raise my litters, when babies are 3+ weeks old (which is about the size of a dwarf).

I have also let two of my standard males live with a dwarf male. The standards were exactly 2 weeks older than the dwarf, and babies still themselves. I had also bred them myself and knew their personalities and temperament quite well. It was very sweet because the two standard boys would play wrestle quite crazy like but they would never rough house with the dwarf boy. Even when he bounced around on top of them, they were nothing but gentle. I also had many many supervised playdates between them before and had their cage next to my computer in the living room so I could monitor them often.

So do people keep dwarfs with standards? yes some do with no problems.
But I have also heard many horror stories where a dwarf was killed by standards.

In the end it is up to each person to make that choice and weigh the risks themselves.


Diet:

Dwarfs are fine eating the same diet as standard rats. They have smaller bellies so it is important to pay attention to serving sizes of treats!

There has been some discussion in breeder groups that dwarfs may require a bit higher protein to make up for their increased activity level. As they get older you can lower the protein levels to normal.

Breeding:

Dwarfs on average have smaller litters than standards. 4-7 babies seems about the average. This may mean that there are less babies available.


I adopt out baby dwarfs alittle bit older than standards because of their smaller size. Babies become available for adoption at 8 weeks old, instead of 6.



My Lines:

I have recently added dwarfs to my lines. My babies come from really wonderful lines with just beautiful temperaments.

My dwarf lines are starting with two males Castiel a Dumbo Siamese & Crowley a Dumbo Black Lightning Blaze

My goals are to have Siamese Dumbo Dwarf & Blue Point Siamese Dumbo Dwarf Lines. I may add more varieties to dwarf in the future.

Castiel



Size pics!

First some video links from my facebook page showing my male dwarf Castiel & my two standard males Gemini & Trouble. The standard boys are exactly 2 weeks older then the dwarf.

Dwarf 6 weeks old vs standard 8 weeks old

3 Months old

This was the dwarf Rey about 12 weeks old meeting 10 day old standard babies (not related)






Questions on dwarfs? Be sure to comment or message me on facebook and I will be happy to answer any questions I can!
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