Saturday, April 30, 2016

Yummy Nummy Mush

So I like to give my rats fresh foods along with their rat block (oxbow). It gives them variety and can provide a wealth of healthy benefits.

The problem with giving them fresh food usually is that rats can pick through it, eat what they like & leave the rest. Also some piggie rats can hog all of one item and the others miss out. So I like to mix everything together. It also is nice because I can use frozen veggies and also make alot and freeze it if need be.

I got this idea from another breeder and truly love it!

You can literally add like anything you want. More veggies then fruit. You can mix it up from whatever is available at the time or whatever is on sale.

I first make a dry base, it makes it a bit thicker. I'll add in crumbs from the oxbow, oats, flax seed (which is super good for them and there have been some studies that it helps prevent tumors), hemp seed, etc...

I mix it all up in my food processor.



Next I mix up the wet stuff in my blender.

I use yogurt, a bit of water to make sure it blends well, frozen veggies- broccoli is always good, spinach, kale, basil, beets, carrots, etc... whatever veggies you can think of, usually a few blueberries or other fruit.



After that I mix the dry into the wet and stir.






Then for babies I add some protein by adding in chopped up hardboiled eggs (shell and all)




They LOVE it! I give it to my babies and they actually popcorn around the cage inbetween bites it gets them so excited!

You can really add anything! But be careful not to add too much protein for adults, too high sugar (which fruit does have quite a bit), not too much fat or calories either. You want to focus on healthy stuff & mostly veggies.

How much to give?

It is suggested that rats get fresh food about the side of their head or about 20% of their diet. You want to give enough but also not too much that they won't eat their other food or make piggies of themselves.

I only give this every other day because I give other fresh stuff and treats as well.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Breeding for Temperament

Besides health, temperament is the most important aspect in breeding. The ultimate goal is to have confident, curious, relaxed, calm and very friendly rats that do not just tolerate people but actively seek people out for attention and love.

So how do you get there?

Breeding for temperament is not insanely difficult but it is not a simple matter either. Temperament is very much ruled by genetics for the most part.

Things like hormones where you get males that become hormonal aggressive. Or females who become hormonal. This can cause major behavior changes in rats often leading to aggression towards other rats, power grooming, or even attacking people. Mother rats that get stressed or anxious and attack. etc...

Anxiety is a huge temperament issue. This often leads to fear or biting or just stressed out rats. And it is important to note that stress can lead to illness such as myco flair ups.



I've actually seen many people say how friendly their average pet store rat is but I think if they met a well bred rat who was bred for temperament they would be in awe & mouth dropping shocked!


I'll show you two examples.

You may be in rat groups and see it all so often, someone brought home a new pet rat and it is hiding in the corner. It is nervous, fearful, won't come out, won't come to the person, may have fear poops, etc... Oh no worries everyone says, it takes a few days to adjust to the new home. Which is true. After a few days or a week or so the rat should adjust and get used to you. Maybe they will suggest some type of bonding training, trust training or immersion.Though sometimes you end up with rats that may require huge effort, patience and time to come around.

VS

I got a rat from an amazing breeder. The very first day I got him he was confident, curious and friendly. New home, new scents, cats & dogs, children (my niece & nephew were visiting) lots of loud noises. He is not even attempting to hide. He is active and outgoing. He calmly sits on my shoulder giving himself a bath. Calmly hops over to someone else when they offer their hand. When he goes into his cage, I can open the door he comes right to my hand. I can pick him up, carry him without him trying to get away.

This is the difference we strive for.

I want rats that would never even imagine biting anyone, like the thought of biting would never occur to them. I want rats that can be picked up, examined if needed or held. I want moms that I can reach into her nest, touch her babies, take her babies without stressing her out or making her upset or want to bite me. I want rats that have no hormonal aggression, they can be housed in large groups or meet new rats and never fight or attack one another.


Nature VS Nurture. 

You often see some breeders saying they handle babies daily and socialize them. I actually say that as well. But it is important to note that by far the genetics behind the babies is what is most important.

There are amazing breeders out there who actually never ever handle their babies beyond checking them over. They let them grow up and judge temperament without any outside influence and their babies do have some of the very best temperaments out there.

I personally feel nurture does play some role in babies. Maybe it is 90% nature & 10% nurture idk...

I do prefer to handle my babies. Well one, omg babies! I won't even lie. I love babies. I love playing with them and snuggling them. My rats are my pets first and foremost and I want to interact with them.

I still firmly believe that I can not only properly test for temperament but be able to judge one rat from another. I think if properly done one can still very much judge temperament even with the influence of handling. Handling the babies daily with intense focus on them lets me see all their little quirks.

On the topic of nurture, there is this wonderful study done by the University of Utah, on how "Highly nurtured rat pups tend to grow up to be calm adults, while rat pups who receive little nurturing tend to grow up to be anxious."

What it basically says is that a calm nonanxious momma rat, will be more nurturing to her babies. She will spend more time relaxed, which in turns means more time to fuss over her babies, more time spent nursing, more time spent licking and grooming the babies.

"The nurturing behavior of a mother rat during the first week of life shapes her pups' epigenomes. And the epigenetic pattern that mom establishes tends to stay put, even after the pups become adults."

The extra licking & grooming actually activates genes (that will likely stay that way for life) that help them deal with stress better.

Definitely take a look at the link HERE. It even lets you play a little game where you are a mommy rat who gets to lick her baby!

So what does that mean?

Well IMO, I think having really amazing rats with great temperament are going to mean they are much more relaxed and calm and amazing more tentative mothers.

Having babies puts animals in a vulnerable position, not only for them but also for their babies. You want the mom to feel safe, not be anxious, not be stressed. This goes back to me saying that you should be able to handle the babies and mom with no fear of being bit or stressing her out. Genetics do play a role in this as well with hormones. The same way males can potentially have hormonal aggression, females can be overly hormonal as mothers which leads to stress and anxiety.

On the positive side though I think that handling babies (when you have a calm mother that is ok with it) can do nothing but good for the babies. Holding, petting, lovingly giving attention to the babies could potentially have the same positive reactions as them being licked/groomed from their moms.

Testing for temperament

Judging the temperament can sometimes be quite subtle. We want to hold back and breed the best of the best. Very rarely is it going to be as obvious of an aggressive, biting, super afraid rat.

There are several things I look for and I do begin testing as itty bitty babies.

1. Flipping a rat on their back.
With most animals showing their belly is a vulnerable situation. If a rat can easily be held on their back with no fuss it is a really great sign. Again it is important to note that I am not looking to train the babies to be ok with this, I am looking for it to be there naturally.



2. Scruffing.
Scruffing is when you hold a rat by the extra skin on the back of their neck. In most cases it is not a good idea to be picking your rat up in this way. But it can be a useful way to hold them to check them over, even more so their teeth.
Alot of other breeders discussed using scruffing as a temperament test and I started using it as well.
You want to look for them to be calm, relaxed and go limp. And you definitely want to see the foot curl.



3. Non-Squirmy
I want babies that I can handle and hold. I want to be able to pick them up and not have them twisting and turning and fighting to get away. There is of a curve on this. Babies are full of energy, I like active hyper little babies. I want them to be active & there is definitely a window where babies are like ugh mom I wanna go play lol. There is a definite difference though between fighting to get away and being hyper & playful.

4. Want & seek attention
If I open a cage or sit down on the floor, I want to be swarmed. I want rats to come right to me. Those who seek out attention are always the best.

5. Obviously no biting
The only situation where I can imagine a pet biting is if they are hurt or injured. And even then I would hope they wouldn't, but I can understand. I have absolute no tolerance for biting.

Hormonal Aggression & Rat Social Behaviors...

To prevent genetic aggression from cropping up I never breed rats that show any signs of aggression. I generally wait to breed males after 7-8 months old. That is a very key time in the males life where hormonal aggression may pop up. Waiting to breed males until after that point means you can properly watch for hormonal aggression and remove those males who have it from your lines.

I also feel strongly that learning social behaviors is very important for babies. Learning how to speak rat, what is acceptable vs what is not. Babies learn some of it very young such as wrestling with their siblings they learn not to be too rough.

But there is a wealth of social behaviors they really need to learn to become well rounded adults.

To ensure this I have several important steps I follow.

1. I keep my babies with their mom until the proper age. I do not separate my boys until 5 weeks old, the girls stay with mom, and the babies are not sold until after 6 weeks. Babies get so much from mom beyond just food. She teaches them how to be rats.

2. I introduce my babies to adult rats. After about 3 weeks old my babies do get introduced to my adult rats.

During playtime to my adult males. My males are all sweet and calm with lovely temperaments so this is safe. I do supervise.

All the babies get tons of playtime with all of my adult females. They visit the females cage. I select a few females to put in my babies cage. By 4 weeks they are free ranging right along with all my females (in my secure rat room).

All the females are again awesome in the temperament department and are used to babies. But they teach them proper rat social graces. They get to learn from a rather large group of girls which is really helpful. It takes a village... lol

When my boys are 5 weeks old they often go into one of my males cages or have free range time with them.

I think it strongly helps prepare them for meeting new rats. I think it sets them up for the future. If you get new rats it should make for easy intros.

I think it works very well, I have very easy intros with all of my rats.



In conclusion...

I want the very best rats imaginable. I strive for excellent pets that want to be with you and bond deeply with you. All of my rats are pets first and I only want the most loving best pets possible, whether they are for me or going to a new home.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

Variety: Harley



So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.


Harley
Harley's are not yet standardized by AFRMA. They are are newer variety, discovered in 2002. They are named after the first rat who started the line, a long haired rat named Harley that was found in a petshop. All the Harleys can be traced back to that start. Read about her story here!  and an interesting site on the first Harley's

Harley's have long wispy fur with no undercoat. Harley is a recessive gene.

From the very first moment I heard about Harley's I have been in love. They look so fluffy and adorable.  

Harley's are still a work in progress. And there are some known issues in some lines.
Some harley's seem to suffer skin issues and even scabs. This may mean a bit of extra care is required such as using coconut oil and many people suggest keeping them on a very low protein diet (14% or even lower). From my research it seems at first they needed to be kept on a very low protein diet (+/- 8%) but through better breeding they no longer need to be kept as drastically low.

There also seem to be some lines that have hormonal and temperament issues. This doesn't seem to be Harley related but more because of breeders in a rush to breed the new rare variety and not being as selective. -Get your rats from a good breeder!

There are also some issues with breeding. Some harley mothers seem to have trouble carrying babies or trouble nursing. Having a foster mom available is very helpful. All of my harley moms will be bred at the same time as a standard coat just incase.

Please note that lines are different. Some breeders are reporting issues others are having little to none. It is surely still a work in progress but they make for lovely adorable pets!


My Lines:

I have just started working with Harleys. My babies came from a great breeder in Indiana (HTG's Zoo). Amazing lines!

I am starting with a Mink Harley female I named Esme, and a Black Berk Harley/Dwarf carrier named Black Widow.
I am currently just happy & excited to work with harleys. I will not have any harley's available for a bit while I breed and test out temperament.

For those interested in Harley's and are patient, follow me on facebook for updates of availability or get on my waitlist now and I will contact you when I have available litters.



See more pics in Esme's photo album

Friday, April 15, 2016

Variety: Silvermane

Another post on some of my varieties, to recap:

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Silvermane is not currently standardized by AFRMA.

Silvermane is a quite new variety. It was discovered in 2012 by a Rattery in North Carolina named Squeaks and Nibbles Rattery. From there is was shared with a handful of select breeders as they worked to create a standard for it.

Silvermane's have a very unique look. Their coat should consist of one color with lighter hairs giving them a silvered look. Their base color can come in a variety of colors but looks best on darker shades.
The standard that most are going for is to have 50-75% of the hairs be "silvered". The nose/muzzle should be a bit dark giving them this really lovely look.

Silvermane babies coats start out as their color standard. Then around 12 weeks of age they begin to "silver". It seems some gradually lighten and others are much quicker.

It is currently believed that silvermane is a coat type and not a color. Some breeders were able to look at the hairs under a microscope and find that the hairs are not actually silvered but instead empty or clear!

Silvermane also seem to have a softer coat. Honestly it does feel so soft, I could just pet my guy forever lol

My Lines:

I have just very recently added Silvermane to my rattery. I am very excited to work with this variety and think it will be one of my very favorites. Ever since seeing the silvermane it has been one of my dream rats and I am just so in awe.

The start of my line is a male Dumbo Silvermane from Great Star Rattery. His name is Alucard.








Thursday, April 14, 2016

Variety: Dumbo

Another post on some of my varieties, to recap:

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Dumbo

AFRMA's Standard-
Dumbo rats to be shown in any recognized color, marking, or variety. The distinguishing feature being their low ear set. The ears are large and round, set low on the sides of the head. Head to form an equilateral triangle when viewed from above.

Dumbo is an ear type from a recessive gene. Gene: dudu

One of my first rats was a dumbo and I fell madly in love with the look right away!

There is some common myths that surround Dumbos.

Dumbos are not any sweeter, larger, etc... They are also not a different breed of rat.

Dumbos are still fancy rats, that same as standards. It is just a different ear type and nothing more.

Sadly alot of pet shops label dumbos as something different, likely to just make them seem more special and charge more. So you will often see stores selling fancy rats and dumbos.

In truth the ear types are labeled as dumbo and standard or top-eared.

My Lines:

I do have both top-eared and dumbos. I prefer dumbo myself so I favor them.

Some breeders do not like working with dumbos because it is difficult to get really good show quality ears sometimes.

I'm happy with my ears, shape & size and they have very limited folding.There is always room to improve!

My Siamese lines favor dumbo.



Dumbo VS Top-Eared

Dumbo



Top-Eared


See my post on checking ear type on pinkies HERE

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Variety: Siamese & Blue Point Siamese

So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Siamese

AFRMA's Standard for Seal Point Siamese:
Body color to be medium beige gradually and evenly shaded over saddle and hindquarters towards the belly, being darkest at base of tail. Tail color to extend down the length of the tail. Belly to be light beige. Points (nose, ears, feet, tail, and tail-root) to be rich dark sepia and to shade evenly into the body color. Eyes red or light ruby.

Gene: aa c(h)c(h)

AFRMA's Standard for Blue Point Siamese:
Body color to be ivory (the darker the better) with a warm blue cast gradually and evenly shaded over the saddle and hindquarters towards the belly, being darkest at the base of the tail. The points (nose, ears, feet, tail, and tail-root) to be a medium slate blue. They should not have a definite or distinct line of demarcation but rather a toning or merging with the remainder of the coat. There should be no white hairs, blotches, streaks, or mealiness of the color. Eyes red or ruby.

Gene: aa c(h)c(h) gg

Siamese are my pride and main focus of my breeder lines. I deeply love the Siamese look.

Siamese are little color changers! They start out life as dark, deeply riched colored and on their first molt the color fades and their points darken.

The Siamese pattern has a somewhat unusual cause. Called acromelanism, this pattern develops because it is thermo-sensitive (the darkness of the fur color is determined by the temperature of its environment). The colder it is, the darker the fur comes in. This is why those areas on the rat which are cooler (nose, ears, feet, tail) have darker fur than the body which is warm. It is also why Siamese rats are darker in the winter than they are in the summer.- AFRMA

This also marks a difference between himalayan rats vs siamese. As adults they can both look exactly the same. The only way to know for sure if you have a himalayan or a siamese is to know it's history and pedigree and/or seeing a picture of it as a baby. If it is white as a baby it is himalayan, if it has color it is siamese. It can get more complicated with some less than standard breedings with lighter colored siamese or marked siamese.

This is a good picture of how Siamese changes. This is all one rat, my boy Dean. As a baby he was quite dark as you can see!

Siamese Color Changing






Seal Point Siamese start off a warm beige as babies, while Blue Point Siamese begin life as a lovely gray (blue) color.





Blue Point Siamese

Marked Siamese





Marked Siamese:

Marked Siamese simply means it has markings; i.e. hooded, capped, etc...
Marked Siamese are kindof wonky during their molt and can be confusing as babies. I have had Blue Point Siamese babies that seemed all white but really did have light markings.

Marked Siamese often only have some points such as on their nose & bum but may have white feet. Their color still fades during a molt and they are left with points.

Marked Siamese

Marked Siamese are not ideal and not suitable for showing. They are more of a pet quality vs a show quality. It is just preference and there is nothing wrong with a marked Siamese as a pet :)

I currently do carry marked Siamese in my lines, more so with my Blue Points. I am working to improve my Siamese lines to better show quality.






My Lines:

Seal Point Siamese Dumbo Standard Coat & Blue Point Siamese Dumbo Standard Coat
They are red/ruby eyed.
I am currently working to phase all of my Siamese into dwarfs.




Two Blue Point Boys

Variety: Dwarfs!

So I thought I would go into some detail about my different lines.

All our pet rats are domesticated Brown rats (Rattus norvegicus). Also called Fancy Rats. (yes even dumbos are fancy rats). The term "fancy" comes from the meaning of a pet hobby. Like saying you fancy something.

So all of our rats are the same breed we just have different varieties. These varieties include different markings, colors, ear type, coat type, and size.

On top of that there are also different names for some varieties depending on your country and club that you follow.

I prefer to follow AFRMA (American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association) Standards.

Dwarfs

Dwarfs are currently not standardized by AFRMA. They are still a semi newer variety. You are not going to stumble upon a dwarf rat, you will need to get them from a breeder.

Dwarf rats are about 1/3 the size of standard rats. It is really quite a large difference.
Standard females weigh around 250-450g, standard males weight around 450-650g.
Both male and female dwarfs are around 115g fully grown. (some lines are a bit larger at around 120-125g)

Look wise, dwarfs seem to have larger eyes. Their tails are noticeable different being shorter and thinner. Dwarfs also have smaller feet.

It is a common misconception that dwarfs are just small rats or that they are created by breeding one small rat to another & continuing to choose the smallest rats to breed. This is very much NOT true. This also leads to people asking if they have a dwarf because their rat is small... again no. You would know if your rat is a dwarf because you got her from a breeder who bred dwarfs. I have also sadly seen people scammed and being sold what they were told were dwarfs when they most certainly are not. Be careful and don't get scammed, often these smaller rats are runts or sickly and are not good healthy rats.

In reality dwarfs are caused by the dwarf gene.
It is a recessive gene (meaning you need it coming from both parents to create dwarfs). So if you have dwarf mom + dwarf dad, you get all dwarf babies. If you have one dwarf parent and one standard parent, you will get all standard babies that carry dwarf. etc...

Dwarfs can come in any color/marking/coat/ear type variety. 


Are dwarfs any different temperament or health wise than standards?

No. It all depends on their lines, same as standards. If you have healthy, sweet/friendly lines then it does not matter if it is a dwarf or a standard.

Dwarfs do not have any unique temperament or health issues that are related or caused by them being a dwarf. They have the same average lifespan as standard sized rats.

That being said.... dwarfs being a newer-ish variety means that some lines still need some work and some breeders out there may have gotten swept up with the flavor of the month and may rushed to breed them rather than sort out and worked to improve the lines. If looking for a dwarf always look for a breeder who has experience and don't be afraid to ask about their lines temperament.

All of my dwarfs come from really great lines that have incredible temperaments!

But... on the positive side of things dwarfs seem to have a much lower risk of tumors. The gene causes a decrease of growth hormones also seems to effect tumors. - http://carcin.oxfordjournals.org/content/23/6/977.full.pdf

Differences in personality?

Dwarfs, both males and females seem to be much more active and energetic than standards.

One of my male dwarfs literally bounces off the sides of his cage. While my standard males the same age as him (2 weeks older) have slowed down and started on their lazy male ways, the dwarf is still insanely active. And all of my males are generally on the more active side.

I really must stress how bouncy and active they are. It is adorable and silly. But it does come with some requirements. Which brings us to.....

Handling and Housing needs:

Dwarfs really are quite tiny compared to standard rats, and as such more care is needed for them.

For housing I suggest a good sized cage with lots of climbing space. Wheels are a great idea for both genders. I'd suggest lots of toys, ledges, ropes, etc... You want a fun active space for them.

Bar spacing is recommended no larger than 1/2 inch.

With their smaller size they can be more delicate. I'd be more careful with small children handling them or with other pets.

I'd also like to share a very heart breaking story. I had a young dwarf girl named Rey. I let her have free range time with my standard females. I have a rat proof and what I thought was safe rat room. One day Rey was following the bigger girls climbing up a shelf, she slipped and fell. Rey passed away from the fall. It was very hard for me to lose her.

I have since completely re designed my rat room to make sure nothing like that would happen again. But I hope my story can cause caution and protect other babies from tragedy.

Being smaller makes rat proofing much more difficult.

Can dwarfs live in the same cages as standards?

There is definitely not a single answer for all rats. Every rat is different and has their own unique personalities.

IMO I would give caution and suggest NOT housing dwarfs with standards in most cases. The size difference is quite large, even more so between males. Imagine a 600g male vs a 115g dwarf! Even if everyone got along beautifully an accident could easily result in injury or death.

I would say it is likely safer for females. But in the end it all is about how your rats are, their personalities, etc... If you are even slightly unsure, I suggest not risking it. If there has ever been signs of aggression in your rats, don't risk it. etc....

All that being said, I have had dwarf females with my standard females. My females are all excellent temperament wise. I do not even need to do proper intros of new rats with them, they are very excepting and sweet. All of them also help raise my litters, when babies are 3+ weeks old (which is about the size of a dwarf).

I have also let two of my standard males live with a dwarf male. The standards were exactly 2 weeks older than the dwarf, and babies still themselves. I had also bred them myself and knew their personalities and temperament quite well. It was very sweet because the two standard boys would play wrestle quite crazy like but they would never rough house with the dwarf boy. Even when he bounced around on top of them, they were nothing but gentle. I also had many many supervised playdates between them before and had their cage next to my computer in the living room so I could monitor them often.

So do people keep dwarfs with standards? yes some do with no problems.
But I have also heard many horror stories where a dwarf was killed by standards.

In the end it is up to each person to make that choice and weigh the risks themselves.


Diet:

Dwarfs are fine eating the same diet as standard rats. They have smaller bellies so it is important to pay attention to serving sizes of treats!

There has been some discussion in breeder groups that dwarfs may require a bit higher protein to make up for their increased activity level. As they get older you can lower the protein levels to normal.

Breeding:

Dwarfs on average have smaller litters than standards. 4-7 babies seems about the average. This may mean that there are less babies available.


I adopt out baby dwarfs alittle bit older than standards because of their smaller size. Babies become available for adoption at 8 weeks old, instead of 6.



My Lines:

I have recently added dwarfs to my lines. My babies come from really wonderful lines with just beautiful temperaments.

My dwarf lines are starting with two males Castiel a Dumbo Siamese & Crowley a Dumbo Black Lightning Blaze

My goals are to have Siamese Dumbo Dwarf & Blue Point Siamese Dumbo Dwarf Lines. I may add more varieties to dwarf in the future.

Castiel



Size pics!

First some video links from my facebook page showing my male dwarf Castiel & my two standard males Gemini & Trouble. The standard boys are exactly 2 weeks older then the dwarf.

Dwarf 6 weeks old vs standard 8 weeks old

3 Months old

This was the dwarf Rey about 12 weeks old meeting 10 day old standard babies (not related)






Questions on dwarfs? Be sure to comment or message me on facebook and I will be happy to answer any questions I can!

Friday, April 8, 2016

Future Litters Planned

I wanted to let everyone know our plans for the litters we have planned for the rest of this year.

These are my current plans for future litters. Please note that pairings may change.

Dates are not finalized until very soon before they are paired. I wait until females are around 5-6 months and close to 300g. 

These dates are when I will pair the does & bucks, not when the babies will be born or available.
When will babies be expected after a pairing?
The doe & buck are paired together around 10 days. Mating has to happen when the female is in heat and may take multiple attempts.
The pregnancy lasts around 21-23 days usually.
Babies are available to go to their new homes after they are 6 weeks old.

If you are interested in a specific line please jump on the wait list and be first in line to reserve the babies you want!


OUAM Charlie X OUAM Max
Expecting
Colors: Blue
Markings: Variegated/Bareback
Coats: Standard
Ears: Possible Dumbos/Standards
Size: Standard

Pairing in May
********************************************
HTG Widow X GRST Alucard
Expecting
Colors: Black/Silvermane
Markings: Berkshire
Coats: Standard/Silvermane
Ears: Dumbos
Size: Standard

Pairing in August or September
********************************************
HTG Esme X GRST Crowley
Expecting
Colors: Mink/Black
Markings: Berkshire/Blaze
Coats: Standard (Harley Carriers)
Ears: Dumbos
Size: Standard(Dwarf Carriers)

Pairing in August or September
********************************************
OUAM Bella X GRST Castiel
Expecting
Variety: Siamese
Coats: Standard
Ears: Dumbos
Size: Standard (Dwarf Carriers)

Pairing in September or October
********************************************

My Lines/Plans:

Blue Variegated
Coat: Standard
Size: Standard
Ears: Standard/Dumbo
Coat: Standard

Siamese 
Coat: Standard
Size: Standard- working towards all dwarf Siamese
Ears: Dumbo
Coat: Standard
More info

Silvermane
Coat: Standard
Size: Standard
Ears: Dumbo
Coat: Standard
More Info




Dwarf Line:
I am planning on merging my Siamese lines to all dwarfs.
All dwarfs will be dumbo with standard fur.
The earliest pairings that will result in some dwarf babies would be in 2017. 
Dwarf babies will be limited. If you are interested please get on my wait list asap!

Dwarfs are a variety of rat that are quite small. An average standard female rat will weigh 350-450g, and an average male will weigh 450-650g. Dwarfs as adults weigh a total of 80-100g (some lines getting up to 120g). Dwarf Info

Harley Line:
I am very excited to be adding harley's. Harely's are long haired rats. They are adorable little fluff balls!
I am planning on pairing my harley female around August/September. Harley will need to be crossed with my harley carriers so I will not have any available until 2017. Currently my harleys are mink and black.

As always check out my nursery for updates!

If you are interested in babies please fill out my application to be put on my waitlist!

10 days old & too cute

Momma & the babies are doing great!

The babies are just starting to get their teeth (poor momma!) I am so in love with these babies. I say that about every litter lol They are just so freaking adorable! I am impatiently patiently waiting for their eyes to open.


Saturday, April 2, 2016

Welcome to the world SIA16MDB96 Litter!

Our newest litter of babies was born March 29, 2016 at around midnight! I walked in to check on the momma and was greeted to the sound of little squeaks!



6 babies in total. 4 girls & 2 boys.



Mom & the babies are all doing very well.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...