Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Babies soon!

Always an exciting time when babies are expected. Any day now our Meg is likely to pop!

Weighed her today and she has gained 96g! She is huge.

How many babies will there be?? Her mom & sister have started a family tradition with litters of 9. Will she continue it? I am guessing 10, nice even number lol. We will soon see.

My poor girl is not happy at all about being in the maternity cage. She has been pouting :( Time will fly by after the babies are born and they will keep her busy but the waiting is always rough.



Meg preggers

Meg big baby tummy!! <3

Posted by Once Upon a Mischief Rattery on Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Meet the newest addition to the rattery!

On Dec 27 we introduced the newest little girl into our rattery!

Rey (named after the female lead in the new Star Wars)
Born 10/21/15 Female
Dwarf  Dumbo Black Berkshire

She is my first dwarf and so itty bitty tiny. She is 9.5 weeks old and weights 50g. She is so adorably petite. At full grown she is only expected to get about 80-100g. Compare that to a standard female at around 300g give or take. She has an absolutely sweet personality. Very curious and friendly.

I am really so in love!




Because of her size keeping dwarfs with standards can be iffy. It really depends on the personality of your rats but just the size difference alone can spell disaster from little spats.

I will be keeping her with my females. I am lucky that they all have sweet personalities and have all been around babies her size. So I am confident.

Right now I have a female rat, Meg, who is pregnant. My thought at this moment is to add Rey in when Meg's babies are alittle older. Then when I intro the babies to my adult female rats, Rey can just slip in with the babies and all the attention won't be just on her lol. After quarantine I will probably slip Yuna in with her until then. Yuna is my little runt girl who is still fairly small. She is 3 months old currently and bigger then Rey but still fairly small size.



Sunday, December 13, 2015

Sleep Well My Sweet Apollo

Tonight I said goodbye to my baby Apollo. It is never easy to say goodbye. Rats have such short lives and you know that but you always hope and it always seems too soon.

He got very sick very fast. One minute he was perfectly fine and the next everything just fell apart. Literally overnight I lost him. The only positive was that I got to hold him and pet him. I rubbed right behind his ear, which is always a favorite scritch spot. I told him that he would not have to suffer anymore and that he would soon be with the Goddess and only know beauty and love.

I got Apollo with his brother Blue, at the beginning of this year (2015). They had been pets to a girl and needed to be rehomed. I had gladly taken them in knowing that they were already older. They were sweet and loving boys -to people...

They were at times quite aggressive with other rats though. I had a badly failed intros with my other boys and then they began fighting with each other! They had to live alone for a while. But with perseverance, I was able to reintro them to one another perfectly. Sadly now Blue is left all alone again :( He is already acting heartbroken. This will not be an easy road ahead.

I loved Apollo so much. He was the sweetest boy. Whenever I would have them out playing, the moment he would see me he would run right to me and want to be picked up. Then he would give me licks. He majorly loved his treats too.

He will be so missed. My heart feels so empty right now. I love you Apollo.
Blue (L) & Apollo (R)


Thursday, December 10, 2015

An awesome duo

So I am pretty excited to announce that today begins my pairing of Meg (siamese dumbo female) with Malygos (Russian Blue Hooded male standard ear).

These two rats have the absolute best temperaments out of any rat I've seen. They both are sweet, calm, and all about love and affection.

This is Meg's first litter, she did help with the babies when her sister Charlie had a litter and possessed excellent motherly skills.

This will also be Maly's first babies. He was paired once before with my girl Sansa but it did not work out. He has such a laid back attitude and she was too much for him I think. I decided to remove her from breeding.

As soon as I put them together they both acted perfectly fine with it as if they had always been together! That is a good sign.

But I admit I am slightly worried about Maly's flirting skills. lol Is he going to be able to make it happen? Only time will tell... I am hoping that with Meg's calm attitude she will be a perfect match for him.

*Praying for babies*

Meg begging to be released from the baby making bin cage

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Should I Breed?

I hear this question all the time. People having some interest in breeding and wondering if they should or not.

Honestly my answer is always going to be no. If you have to ask, then you are probably in no way ready or prepared to undertake it. Breeding is not something that should be done on a whim or because someone online told you it is a good idea. It requires more then just throwing two animals together. If you want to be a responsible pet owner and breeder you need to really think about it, consider every option, study and research until you are beyond qualified.

The difference between a responsible breeder vs a back yard breeder (BYB):

This subject is up for endless debates. What makes a responsible breeder? There are definitely things that I feel are important but IMO the most basic differences are:

1.) The reasoning behind breeding. There are tons of animals out there needing homes. There is no lack of rats. Choosing to bring more pets into this world deserves a very good reason beyond, I just wanted to.

IMO breeding should be at its core for the betterment of the animal/line. Because of mills, pet stores, accidental litters and BYBs rats have alot of health issues and some are just really badly bred in temperament and colors/variety. This can all be helped with good legit breeders. But doing so requires more then just throwing two rats together. if you are not doing things with care, knowledge and research you are part of the problem not the solution.

I am not saying fun colors, varieties and such are not part of it but bettering the rats should be the most important purpose.

Responsible Breeder: Breeds with knowledge to better the animal and its lines at the core.

BYB: Breeds for any other reason

2.) The animals care. Keeping a good amount of animals is not easy. It requires alot of time/effort in cleaning and handling. It costs alot of money in cages, supplies and food.

There is definitely a line drawn between people who give 100% and those who cut every corner they can. 

Responsible Breeder: are going to put the animals health, well being- physically, mentally, emotionally ahead of all else. They give proper vet care, they feed food that they feel is truly good quality not just because of the price (this doesnt always mean they feed the best/most expensive, but that they believe that it is quality food that will benefit them), they give them proper space, they keep a clean rattery, they have healthy animals, their animals are of good temperament and well handled.

BYB: Puts money first, are often using very cheap food, cages, over crowding, no vet care, dirty, doesn't give their animals the proper time or care.

3.) Have a severe lack of knowledge of the animals they are dealing with. No one is perfect and knowing that you need to be continually learning and growing as a breeder. But one should have a grasp on basic genetics and understand the lines they are working with.

Red flags often include- not understanding how to sex rats, not understanding proper terms, not understanding the basics of mating, pregnancy, and labor. Not knowing recessive vs dominant genes- more so of what they are working with. Not knowing the colors they are working with.

Responsible Breeder: Learns the basics before they begin. Is patient. Has a good working knowledge of the lines and of the animal itself. This also includes things like breeding rats at the correct age/weight, retiring their rats at a good age, not over breeding.

BYB: Doesn't understand the basics. Gives sketchy info or refuses to give info. Is not open to learning. Doesn't know its own lines.  

4.) Responsible placement. As said, when choosing to breed you are making the choice to bring these little lives into the world. What happens to them is on you.

Responsible Breeders: Choosy about the placement of their babies. Doesn't sell babies too young, doesn't sell sick animals. Takes effort to find them the best homes. Does not overbreed, Weans correctly, is prepared to keep any rats that do not sell.

BYB: Sells for profit above all else, sells to anyone willing to buy. Overbreeds- too many females than they can handle, back to back litters. Breeds rats too young or not healthy or too old. Weans too young, sells too young. Refuses to keep rats that do not sell- sells to pet shops, as feeders (this ofcourse is directed at those who are projecting themselves as pet breeders), or worse releases/kills leftover rats.
 







I often see three main reasons for wanting to breed:

1. OMG Babies! Babies are adorable. You have to be a heartless monster to not agree that babies are cute little angels. People want to play with babies, see babies, watch them grow and experience that.

2. "My rat has such an awesome temperament, great color, markings, or is just so amazing that it MUST be passed down" They enjoy their rat and think it is special and should continue on or just do not want to lose their rat and think having its child will keep a piece of it alive.

3. $$ Money! Ooo let me breed and have an easy get rich quick scheme that just allows me to play with pets all day, count me in!

Why these reasons do not work:

  • Babies are cute, but they are also a ton of work. Raising a well adjusted amazing baby takes effort. They need to be handled often, exposed to different things. Sometimes litters can be huge on average 8-12 but upwards of 20 or more! Juggling so many curious wiggly babies is not an easy task! Babies begin to explore their cage fully after 2 weeks. They are all over the place from then on!

  • Bringing any life into this world makes it your responsibility. It didn't ask to exist, you made that choice. So that life is on you! If you do not know basic genetics and the history of your rats you may be breeding fatal health issues. What happens if that baby is born with something like megacolon and then has to suffer in pain? What happens if the mother dies, can you feed 20 babies all day every day? What happens if injuries occur? What will happen to these babies when they grow up? Will they go to a loving, responsible forever home or will they end up with a flipper, abused, neglected or worse?
  • Babies are cute but can you also handle the heartbreak? Alot of truly tragic events can occur. Nature can be a harsh bitch. Babies die. Mothers die. It is possible for moms to refuse to feed their young, kill their young, eat their young. I read a post once by a breeder who had just a mom with some issues & she not only killer her entire litter but the scene would be appropriate for the worst horror movies... Can you handle that? Could you walk in expecting cute babies and instead have to deal with cleaning a cage full of blood, guts, bones? Can you still handle the mom after that? If the answer is no... then perhaps breeding is not for you.
  • Can you make tough decisions?  If a baby is struggling and in pain could you kill it?
  • It is an emotional rollercoaster. I dealt with having a runt, she was tiny & every day I expected her to not survive. Several others had litters at the same time as me with runts and all of their runts died. It is heartbreaking, you will fall in love with the sick/injured/hopeless ones the most.

  • No matter how lovely, cute, sweet your rat is that doesn't mean it's babies will be anything like that. That is not how breeding works. It isn't cloning lol. It depends on their line- their parents, grandparents just as much. When you breed you are not just mixing what you see the parents have but also what they carry in their lines. Which could be fatal or things that are not good at all. Perhaps their entire line all die young, are prone to tumors, etc... You basically fated that onto the babies. Colors are also not so simple. It is very possible to breed two blues and get blacks! 
  • If you do not know their history, then you have no idea what you will get! 
  • What if your sweet, loving heart rat dies from complications during pregnancy or labor? Even humans with all of our wonderful expensive doctors can still have issues, complications and death. Are you willing to lose her?
  • The babies may be nothing like the rat you own in temperament or personality. We all may understand wanting a piece of your rat to stay alive but that is not a good enough reason. 

  • Money? Hahahahahaha...nope. While some may think of rats as inexpensive pets that is very much not true and breeding is going to raise that expensive by alot. But even the very best bred rats are probably going to be sold for less than $35, most by far are going to go for around $10-$15. And you will have people complain that it is still too high. 
  • Cages are very expensive. You need a cage(s) for all your pet rats to live. A cage for the male and female to breed. A cage for the mother to give birth and raise her babies. A cage for the young boys to be separated into before they are old enough to be sold. A cage for any rats you keep. A cage for any rats that you can not find homes for, travel cages, etc... And space for all of those cages.
  •  High quality food is expensive. Even cheap food adds up when you are feeding alot of rats. Once babies hit 3 weeks old they are eating food. They are growing babies and by the time they are just 4,5,6 weeks old they are eating alot, multiply that by how large a litter you have! You will be shocked at how much food you go through with babies. 
  • You will not make money breeding rats responsibly. You may not even make anything breeding irresponsible either. 
  • Vet care is expensive for rats. Just getting in the door you are looking at a fairly high fee in most cases. Many times when treating rats you may need to treat the entire colony. Medicine is not cheap and if you have alot of rats it is going to add up. 

    Other issues to consider:

    1.) Quarantine. This is a very important step in rat care. You will need to bring in new rats and even getting them from responsible sources you should still quarantine them. Do you have a place to do a proper (different air space) quarantine? If not you could put your entire colony at risk and lose all of your lines, risk their health- perhaps making them unsafe to breed.

    2.) Space. Rats take up alot of space lol

    3.) Time/Energy. I think this is what hits many people. It is hard to really guess how much is really required. And if you have family/work/fun it can be hard to juggle it all. Cleaning takes time, feeding and caring for a large amount of rats takes time, handling babies takes time. It can be alot to deal with. And you really have to be careful to pace yourself. Don't start off with a million different varieties. Start small. It is easy to become overwhelmed.

    4.) Money is a huge factor. Food is expensive, cages are expensive. Vets are super expensive.

    5.) You have to deal with people. People will need to talk to you in order to sell them rats. You should practice some good business & social practices, replying to people in a quick and polite way for example. You will get alot of people asking you absurd questions, people who are not good homes and you will have to tell them no and perhaps deal with them being upset, people who show 110% interest and then change their mind or disappear at the last minute. Some breeders get known for being not very people friendly lol but it is just because of dealing with some nut jobs out there. Also sometimes there are people who are crazy against breeding and will attack you. There is also some drama in the rat breeder community that you may end up dealing with.

    Most breeders at some point will get someone telling them that they shouldn't breed and also someone telling them that they charge too much- even at $10... Be prepared.

    6.) Your location vs demand. If you live in a large city it is going to be much easier to find homes but you may have to deal with other breeders as well. But as a breeder you really should be able and willing to travel quite a distance to find homes. Not everyone is going to be able to come to you. And there may be little prospects within your own town. This is something I think alot of people do not consider. But most breeders have to travel some distance to meet buyers. You can charge a gas/travel fee but you also have to realize some people think of rats as cheap pets and don't expect to spend alot.


    If you have read through all of this and still want to breed...

    1. Step one. Stop and truly think about your reasons why and define your ethics.
    IMO this is the most important first step. Is this a whim or is it something true? What is your purpose?

    What ethics will you have? This may change overtime as you learn but it is an important thing to consider. Alot will come up and it is better to be prepared.Write it all down as if you were explaining it to someone. It will truly help. I found it helpful to just google rat breeders and read over all of their ethics and policies. What did I agree with? What did I disagree with? And why?

    If you can not do this then you are surely not ready to begin.

    2. Step two. Start studying genetics. It may seem scary or overwhelming at first but the basics are not that difficult. Start small, learn the very basics- recessive/dominant. Start with your own lines you are interested in.

    You should have the very basics understood before you begin.

    3. Step Three. Figure out what lines you are interested in, start small. Yes a million different varieties look awesome and you will want them all. But start with like one or two and leave room to grow!

    4. Step Four. Join the community and make friends with local breeders. If you can find a mentor that is great though I dont think it is as important these days when you have access to so many people online. But join all the rat breeder groups you can. You will learn a ton just from reading posts but do not be afraid to ask questions.

    Also yes find other breeders who live near you and make friends. You will need rats from a breeder to start off with and you will want access to different lines in the future, and in order to get them you will need to be friendly with these people. Many breeders will not just give up rats to just anyone.

    5. Step Five. Learn all you can about the actual acts of mating, breeding, all the maternity stuff and sexing.

    6. Step Six. Set yourself up as a professional business. Get a website or at the least a facebook page. Business cards are nice. An email address that people can reach you at. Make yourself as professional as possible IMO.


    IMO 1-2 years of studying and preparing is a good time frame. Again don't rush.

    if you have any questions or where to find good websites or facebook breeder groups feel free to ask!!






    Tuesday, November 10, 2015

    The importance of a proper quarantine!

    I would say by far most pet rat owners do not use a proper quarantine when introducing new rats. I'd even say most do not even attempt to do a quarantine at all. I get it, when I was new to rats I admit i did not either.

    We tend to get this feeling that anything bad can't or won't happen to us. We shrug it off as some tiny minuscule possibility to worry about.

    But the truth is that by not doing a proper quarantine every time you are putting your rats health and lives at risk.

    Are not our babies important enough to put some effort into keeping them safe? I honestly can not imagine the guilt I would feel if my very risky stupid choice ended in their illness or death. That isnt even mentioning the very expensive vet bills that could come with it.

    I have also heard too many people say something along the lines of- "well I have never done a quarantine in the past and never had any issues"

    The lack of a problem so far doesn't mean there is no risk. That would be like saying "I've smoked for years and never got cancer" Yeah and the truth is you may never get cancer either, but there is still a huge scary risk that you might!!

    You may have so far lucked out but the risk is still always there... are you willing to bet the health or lives of your rats on it??

    It is really easy to be dismissive of something that hasnt touched us personally. But a quarantine is not some insane overboard step that doesn't really matter. The risk is very real and very deadly. There have been alot of outbreaks lately all over, this is really affecting people.






    Recently the importance of doing a proper quarantine hit me quite hard. I got to see the brutal reality of what happens if you do not quarantine as well as the very importance as to why you should. Luckily, thank the Gods it did not happen with my own rats. All of my babies are healthy and doing well.

    I do not want to get into too much detail of the events that transpired because 1) While I am a member of the groups, I was not able to make the meetups this year and did not get any rats from them. So I do not feel that I am personally involved. 2) There is still alot of ambiguity & info is still coming forward so I do not have all the details to share. 3) This post is not about the meetups and I am only mentioning it as why it showed me the importance of quarantine.


    Anyways, there was a rat meetup where local breeders and some interested parties were invited. People came from quite the distance around actually, several states away and even Canada to exchange rats. The people involved were all mostly well respected breeders.

    Long story short, there were sick rats. People got sick rats, it spread to other rats. People had to watch the rats get ill, suffer and some die. Some were able to save them with treatment of meds but some will have lasting issues and some were affected hard.

    You can read about some of it here:
    https://www.facebook.com/notes/863849600389797/



    Doing a proper quarantine saved their entire mischiefs. It only takes one sick rat for it to spread. Most illnesses/diseases spread very easily and will infect your entire mischief of rats. Sometimes nothing can save them, other times if you act very quickly and treat them all with meds you may be able to save them.

    I have read so many stories of people losing entire colonies of rats from one little mistake :( It is just heartbreaking.

    I am also not sure if people have heard but there have been ALOT of cases of sendai out there lately. Many of them coming from pet stores. This is deadly to our rats.

    There is also the matter of parasites like mites, lice, etc... 


    So what is quarantine & what does it mean?

    I have seen some people say they just put the new rat across the room from their own rats and think that will be enough. I am sorry to say that no, that is not how you quarantine at all. That will make almost no difference!

    In this sense quarantine means: to separate and isolate to prevent the spread of disease, including bacterial infections, viruses, fungus and parasites (both internal and external).

    Quarantine needs to be in a separate rat free location and maintain a persistent quarantine environment. No shared air space and no handling between rats. No using the same items (like cleaning supplies even) between environments.
    The minimum quarantine time is 14 days (2 weeks).

    This is a link on proper quarantine that everyone should read.
    http://ratguide.com/health/basics/quarantine.php

    There are two main types of quarantine:
     In home & separate location.

    In home if done properly can help against some bacteria and parasites but will do nothing against airborne viruses like SDA, Sendai or Parvovirus.



    What does this mean?

    It means ideally your new rats should NOT be kept in the same room or even house as your current rats. Have them stay at a friends or relative. Or they should be kept in something like a heat/air controlled shed or garage that is safe.

    It also means you need to take precautions:

    • During a quarantine no going back and forth between the rats. Ideally wait three hours, change clothes, shower. That is alot but it is the only way to be sure you wont be passing anything between them.
    • No visiting strange rats, no visiting pet stores that sell live animals. If you do then again do the three hour wait before coming home, shower, change clothes.
    • Absolutely no breaking quarantine. It doesn't matter if the rat(s) are lonely and it makes you sad. It is ok to wait to be safe. Lonely for a bit of time is better then sick or dead.
    Be mindful of where you get your rats from and pay attention to any signs or symptoms of illness. Pet stores have been known for selling sick rats, some back yard rescues do not follow proper quarantine, and yes while most breeders should be great about it and have healthy rats- sadly not all breeders do. Not all breeders are created equal. Being a breeder in itself doesn't make one ethical. Making sure the breeder you are working with is legit and responsible helps alot. Do not be afraid to ask your breeder what their quarantine situation is, if they brought in any new rats, if they have had any illnesses and if they have tested for anything. A good breeder will be open and honest and shouldnt mind the questions.

    But still IMO always quarantine. Even the best can make mistakes.


    Ok but I don't have a summer home to quarantine these guys away???

    It is true, not everyone is able to do a proper quarantine. You do not have an outside space, no friends/family able/willing to do it. etc...

    Well that shouldn't mean that you just dismiss the quarantine all together.

    1) Be aware of the risks. Understand the risks. Learn about the different illnesses, their symptoms and any signs. Be prepared with meds and a vet. Time is a huge factor on if your rats will live and recover or die. If you can not afford meds and a vet I would honestly suggest not bringing in new rats at that time. Save up!

    2) As I said above be mindful of where you get your rats from. No place is 100% safe. Ask around to see if there have been any outbreaks in the area.

    3) Do the very best quarantine you can. Take every precaution possible.

    Doing an In Home Quarantine

    To repeat myself:
    In home if done properly can help against some bacteria and parasites but will do nothing against airborne viruses like SDA, Sendai or Parvovirus.

    • Keep new rats in a separate room, as far away as possible. With no direct airflow in between is best.
    • Limit anyone from entering the room if possible, including other pets.
    • Never share anything between rooms- nothing inside the cage or even cleaning tools. People often forget and use the same gloves or broom.
    • Try to limit the handling of your new rats during the quarantine.
    • Wait 3 hours between handling rats.
    • Wash your hands/shower/change clothes if possible between handling
    • Keeping the new rats in a tank or bin cage just during quarantine may help limit the spread a bit more than with an open aired cage.

    My rats and quarantine practices.

    I had someone ask me during a recent litter if they had to quarantine the babies they got from me.

    I will NEVER tell someone not to quarantine. My terms even have a health guarantee stating:

    I guarantee the health of all my animals before they leave. All adopters are expected to quarantine their newly adopted rat(s). If said rat(s) get ill or have health issues during the two week time from the date of the contract, I will give a full refund on return of the rat(s) or death. The adopter may need to give proof of quarantine at my discretion. 

    That being said... all of my rats are healthy. I have had zero health issues within my colony. I I do not visit outside rats or even pet stores. I haven't brought in any new rats (at this time).

    So I told her I felt safe but that the decision was hers to make.


    I will always do a proper quarantine.
    If I ever have any health issues crop up, I would retire those lines and never adopt out sick rats.
    If I bring in new rats, they again will be quarantined but I will gladly have that information given.

    If, for example something had happened to me with like this event. Say I had gone and had received sick rats. They would have been quarantined so my rats would not have been at risk. But if illness had cropped up in the quarantined rats I would still share that information. I would also have my rats tested as a precaution. I believe in being open and honest above all else, even if it doesnt have any affect on my rats I have for sale.

    Ok so my quarantine practices are as follows

    1) I have a basement to my home that has no shared airflow. It is more like a cellar and has an outside entrance that isnt even really connected to my house.

    2) I quarantine all new rats in that basement. I only enter/exit through the outside entrance. I never handle the rats back to back. I always change clothes/shower after handling them.

    3) I do a 3 week quarantine if there are zero symptoms present. If any symptoms show up they stay in quarantine while they are treated and the quarantine will begin anew after they are finished with their meds and last a month after that.

    4) All rats in quarantine would be treated even if they didnt have signs and stay in quarantine

    5) No new rats entering quarantine until the ones in it are done.

    6) Pristine cleaning practices

    7) I have a strict no rats in or out for 30 days around my adoptions. So I have a litter who is to be up for adoption, I will not bring in any new rats for 30 days prior to that.

    8) I keep a closed rattery for this very reason as well. I do not visit pet stores and if I have outside contact with rats i do follow the 3 hour rule with a shower/change of clothes.

    If anyone has questions or concerns about my quarantine practices feel free to ask :)



    More on Sendai & SDA

    Sendai and SDA are 2 highly contagious and deadly viruses that can kill entire colonies of rats overnight.
    SDA is short for Sialodacryoadenitis virus or Rat corona virus.

    SDA, SENDAI
    Contagious Rat Viruses:
    http://animals.pawnation.com/rat-viruses-2114.html
    Rat & Mouse Gazette: Sendai, Not Just a Mouse Disease
    http://www.rmca.org/Articles/sendai.htm
    Finn Mouse: Sendai Virus (scroll down)
    http://hiiret.fi/eng/health/?pg=2&sub=1
    RMCA: Dos and Don'ts of Sendai and SDA Quarantine
    http://www.rmca.org/Articles/dosanddonts.htm


    here is also a list of SOME recent known outbreaks
    https://www.facebook.com/RatNationPi...tal_comments=2



     Myco
    http://ratguide.com/health/bacteria/mycoplasma_mycoplasmosis.php

    Parasites
    http://ratguide.com/health/integumentary_skin/ectoparasites.php

    CARB
    http://ratguide.com/health/bacteria/car_bacillus.php

    From Rat Health Guide:
    Signs of illness may include but are not limited to any of the following:
    • Porphyrin secretions from eyes or nose
    • Sneezing
    • Wheezing
    • Rough coat
    • Labored breathing
    • Lethargy
    • Hunched posture
    • Swelling on neck or body
    • Abscesses
    • Scabs or itching
    • Diarrhea
    • Constipation
    • Lack of appetite
    • Eye ulcerations, bleeding, or swelling
    • Visual identification of parasites including lice nits
    • Abnormal odor from the rat
    • Abnormal smelling feces or urine
    • Respiratory distress
    • Head tilt or abnormal gait
    • Thinness 

    Health Check:
    http://ratguide.com/health/basics/basic_health_check.php

    Advance Health Check
    http://ratguide.com/health/basics/advanced_health_check.php






    In the end...just be careful, be safe. Know and understand the risks, be aware of outbreaks near you, know the signs of illness, have a vet ahead of time and know what meds to ask for. Take all precautions you can, every single time.

    Friday, October 2, 2015

    Happy Birthday to my first girls

    Today Oct 2 is the 1 year birthday of my Himalayan Triplets. Named after the Charmed sisters- Prue, Piper & Phoebe. It is very hard to tell them apart so I just call them the Charmed Triplets!

    They are going to get a special dessert tonight.

    These girls were the very first litter of rat babies I raised. So it is pretty special to me. I love them so much. It is hard to believe an entire year has gone by.

    Baby Pic!




    Sunday, September 27, 2015

    Baby Rat Playtime

    I wanted to show alittle bit about how I let my babies get playtime in.

    I feel it is very important to little developing rats to let them have exposure to alot of different things. Sounds, sights, smells, and touch. This is a key time in their life to not only learn and absorb all they can but to also teach them to be confident and unafraid of new things.

    I do handle my babies every single day from birth, but at about 2 weeks old when their eyes have opened is where the fun really begins. 

    I take them into my living room where I have a small animal playpen set up. It is fairly good height for babies and the bars are thinly spaced so they can not squeeze through. I put it in the living room instead of the rat room so they can be exposed to new sights, smells, noises, animals and foot traffic.

    **Note: Yes I do expose all of my babies to the cats and dog safely. I do not recommend this for those who are not 100% experienced and know their pets very well. It is always completely supervised and at a safe distance. I like the babies getting experience with the animal smells and having them being watched. I have done this with all of my litters, I know my pets very very well. I would never let them touch or be too close as accidents can occur.

    Ok so I fill the playpen with a different variety of items each day. This lets them try out new things, textures, stuff to climb over, on, and inside. It challenges their brains.

    Some things I have used: cat toy balls with bells, ribbons that they will tug and drag around, paper towel rolls, boxes, bowls, and parts of cages to climb on. When they are alittle bit older they will also get to experience very shallow bowls of water, pea fishing, and some new treats!

    So here are some videos and pics!

    19 Days Old




    Their very first time in the playpen at 17 days old:



    Playing with a kitty ball at 17 days old:


    Now 19 Days old you can see they are much more active.

    And have even learned to escape the playpen. Not even three weeks old yet!! What handfuls.

    Saturday, September 26, 2015

    Can I pass my cold to my rats?

    What could be worse then suffering through a cold? Worrying if you can pass said cold on to your little rat babies!

    People often wonder if their colds are able to be passed along to their rats.

    Luckily the answer is no, you can not pass your cold to your rat!

    The virus that causes the common cold in humans is not something that can affect rats. Humans are commonly affected by the rhinovirus or coronavirus which are species specific.

    While info is often shared that rats can get strep from us, that too is untrue. Strep throat is caused by streptococci pyogenes and rats can not catch this either.

    So have no fear! if you are feeling under the weather curl up in bed with a nice cup of tea, a good book and snuggle your rats!

    - I am not a doctor nor a vet. It is always best to consult the proper one with any medical questions you may have!

    Friday, September 25, 2015

    Christmas Litter Update


    As announced I will be pairing my two beautiful Russian Blue Hooded rats very shortly.

    Babies are planned to be available for sale the second week of December.

    Sansa (GSQA0-2) is a lovely girl. Beautiful, expressive, very curious and confident.

    Maly (GSQA0-1) is my heart boy ♥ He is a super sweet boy. He has loads of energy and is so playful! He is attention lover. He wants to be held, cuddled and played with 24/7!

    Both rats were purchased from the amazing Great Star Rattery in Rochester, NY. They are not related.

    I am quite excited for this pairing. They will make some beautiful sweet babies for sure.

    I will be holding back babies from this litter to pair with my dumbos for lots of future little dumbo babies!


    ♥ If you would be interested in any of these babies, please contact me and I can set you on the wait list for your choice of sex, depending ofcourse on how many/sexes.

    Tuesday, September 15, 2015

    BCA9 Litter

    Introducing my lovely BCA9 Litter.

    Sadly this was an accidental litter. My sweet little girl Charlie decided to out smart me and managed (what I thought was) the unfathomable feat of getting to the boys cage. Even the best of us can make mistakes and be out smarted by a rat! She is just like her mother, my heart rat Khaleesi and always looking for ways to test her boundaries. Well the lesson was learned the hard way and it will never happen again!

    While Charlie's litter was a surprise, I am trying to make the best of it.

    They will all be available for adoption after October 20th.

    9 babies, 6 boys & 3 girls.






    Friday, September 11, 2015

    Nursery Cage

    I wanted to share my nursery/grow out cage. A nursery cage is a separate cage for the momma rat to have & raise her babies in. It should be baby rat safe & secure. Being easy to get into and easy to get to the babies is also a huge plus. But it should also be large enough for the babies to grow up in. When you have like nine or so 3-4 week old rats, space is important!!

    Most people use tanks, as in fish tanks. I am not a fan of tanks at all. They are too small, too heavy, difficult to move around, and has horrible ventilation. All of my rats also reacted very badly from being in a tank. They have lived in spacious cages their whole life and would freak out being in a tank. As I said they are also just far too small, while fine for pinkies. Once the rats have opened their eyes and begin getting mobile it just isn't suitable IMO. I also feel it doesn't give babies a fair learning experience. Rats need to climb & frolic.

    The second option many people use is a bin cage. Which is what I made. A bin cage is when you use a plastic storage bin and cut out the sides/top and replace them with hardware cloth. The problem is that many people go way too small again. Shoe box sized or slightly larger just isn't fun :(

    I really love that I can remove the entire lid and get inside to check on the babies/mom.

    Some may dismiss the larger size as too much room for pinkies. But I disagree with that. I place a box in one side with high enough edges that pinkies & even week old rats won't be able to crawl out of. This keeps the babies contained and still gives mom lots of room.

    You can add a wheel, hammocks, hanging baskets, shelves, toys, etc.... 

    So I set out to create the perfect bin cage for my nursery!

    NOTE: Plastic can be chewed through. This should in no way be used as a permanent cage. if you have serious chewers this may not be appropriate. 

    Here is the finished project:



    So it isn't the most beautiful thing in the world but it is surely isn't as ugly as it could be either lol. I actually think it looks nice enough and not an eye sore. I am sure one could make it look nicer if they tried harder. 

    It was actually more difficult then I thought it would be. Quite a bit of work & there were some frustrating moments. I will fully admit, I am NOT handy in any way. I am prissy, whiny, and a huge accident prone clutz.

    If you would like to make your own I'll go through the steps with you.

    Click on the pics to see larger versions. 

    Supplies Needed:

    A large plastic tub
    Hardware cloth (0.5"-0.25")
    Zipties or bolts & washers
    A drill
    Wire cutters
    Small needle nose pliers
    Utility Knife
     


    Time: it took me like half a day to put together but my drill wasn't charged much and I had to keep stopping to let it charge some. But I imagine an hour or a couple hours seems about right.

    For the plastic tub the larger the better. Try not to choose one with too thin of plastic as it could be flimsy & may break/crack during the process. But if you choose too thick of plastic it may be very difficult to work with. I actually used a tub I already had so I don't remember how much it cost. I would say $10-$30 is about right. You can buy them just about anywhere, including wal-mart, target, etc... I do prefer a lid that has snaps to be more secure.

    The hardware cloth I bought at tractor supply, but u can get it at any hardware store. It is near the chicken wire, if you need to ask for help finding it. I bought a 24" by 10 foot roll and it was about $13. I still have lots left as well. I would have maybe preferred using 1/4 inch spacing of the squares but they didn't have it. I got 1/2 inch instead and that is perfectly fine. The babies won't escape through it. You want to get 1/2 inch or smaller though for sure. 1 inch would be far too big.

    Alot of people use bolts & washers to secure the hardware cloth but I chose zipties instead. It is your choice. I bought a bag of 100 and maybe used half.

    Tool wise, you definitely want some nice wire cutters to cut the hardware cloth down to size. I think it was maybe $5 around there somewhere. I used a very small pair of needle nose pliers to bend the ends of the hardware cloth as I couldn't cut the sharp ends off enough. A drill is super important. And I used a utility knife to cut the tub. You can use lots of different things to cut with- a saw, a dremel, etc...


    Step 1: Draw out your windows

    Take the tub and draw out squares on the lid and sides so you can easily cut them out later. I didn't have a ruler so I used a cereal box lol I left a small piece of plastic in the middle of the lid for alittle more support. You want to leave room around the windows to attach the hardware cloth.

    I also prefer to make the windows alittle bit higher on the sides. So little babies will not be right against the mesh if they wonder around.




    Step 2: Measure out the hardware cloth

    You want the piece of hardware cloth to be LARGER then the squares. I made it a few holes larger on each side. You can be smart and have a ruler and measure the squares then measure the mesh or you can be like me and just line up the mesh to the squares and mark it then cut. NOTE: the hardware cloth is a pain to work with. It comes in a roll & will want to roll up on you. It is also alot of work to snip through it. Your hands will be getting a work out!




    Step 3: Trim/bend the ends of the hardware cloth

    After you cut the mesh the ends will be pointy & sharp. You obviously can not leave them like this as they may injure the rats. So you need to trim them smooth or bend them. I couldn't get them trimmed well enough, my cutters were huge though so maybe that is why. Instead I used the little pliers to bend each of the ends over.



    Step 4: Cut out the squares

    This is the hard part. My plan was to dremel them out, which was suggested to me. But apparently  my dremel didn't have blades lol. So I was going to saw through them but I guess we only had a bowed type saw and so I would need a huge hole to get the saw into to begin with. Finally thanks to my husband we decided to use the utility knife.

    We drilled holes in all 4 corners and then used the knife to cut them out. I didn't use the knife as I am sure I would have cut my arm off and I do not think I would have had the strength to actually get through the plastic. So if you are not so strong or careful you may need to get some assistance on this part. Safety first!

    My husband had to use some strength to get the knife through but it went right through and was not difficult to remove them at all.

    Drilling the holes was super easy. My husband did the first one because he was worried it would be difficult but it actually was super simple and went right through like butter.




    Step 5: Setting up the mesh

    When attaching the mesh you have to put it on the INSIDE of the tub. This will help prevent chewing and escapes. If you have the edge of the plastic on the inside they will chew on the edge and sooner or later have a hole.

    I had alittle oops here because when I flipped the lid over I realized the lid had little plastic bits that got in the way of the mesh. I had to do some trimming of the mesh here.

    You also want to lay out the mesh against the tub and using a marker put dots down through the holes where you will want to drill to attach it.

    I made a few mistakes here, I didn't plan enough holes and had to make more. You want it very secure. Get the corners, along the top and sides.







    Step 6: Drill Holes

    Super easy, drill holes where you have marked the dots. Safety first!






    Step 7: Attach the hardware cloth

    REMEMBER THE MESH GOES ON THE INSIDE OF THE TUB!

    Line up the mesh once again and attach it using zipties (or bolts). I suggest doing the corners first so it is properly aligned then the middle and then the rest. Make sure they are very tight.

    Double check once you are done that it is tight and secure. Rats can wiggle through small spaces so the mesh needs to be tightly against the plastic. Try to push a finger underneath.

    Add more holes if you need to.





    Step 8: Trim the ends of the zipties





    Step 9: All Done!

    Cleaning up the mess you just made isn't so much fun. But you have successfully made a bin cage.

    You should probably clean out the tub before using it. Make sure there are no pointy ends you may have missed and no left over trash bits inside.

    This pic is to show how large it is. Cereal box & chair for size comparison.  Excuse the mess (& ugly chair).




    I am really happy with how it turned out. I am already using it. And my rat girl seemed quite content in it. The wire is great for fitting water bottles and she was happily climbing the sides. In the future I might remove the other two sides and replace them with mesh as well. I'm not sure as I feel it is very well ventilated with just the top and sides because of its size.


    Decorating tips:

    The height makes it lovely for decorating with hammocks, hanging baskets, you could even put in a shelf. Remember safety for the babies. But mom shouldn't have to give up her comforts.

    I do suggest placing a box, smaller plastic tub, etc... in one side for the pinkies.

    For other ideas just google bin cage. They are mostly used with hamsters and as I said most are made with quite small bins. But just use a larger tub and all will be well.


    Updated pics with it in use to come.......

    How Siamese Changes

    I thought my boy Dean was a lovely example of how the Siamese rat's fur changes! The siamese starts out with dark or cream fur and as they grow they lighten and develop their lovely points.

    When Dean was born he was a beautiful dark brown color. As he grew he began to lighten slowly. Then before I knew it he was a light cream color with points.

    (Dean is the brown rat in the baby pics)

    Siamese Rat

    Wednesday, September 2, 2015

    Your first rats

    I always wish there was a check list of things I needed to know right away before getting my first rats.

    There is often misconceptions and many pet shops seem to make it their mission to give out bad, wrong & misleading info!

    So here is my most useful simple info to consider when getting your first rats.

    1. The bigger the cage the better!

    You will find most rat owners make the mistake of getting a cage too small at first. We often end up upgrading soon after! But IMO it is much wiser to start off with the larger cage, both financially and for the care of the rats.

    When you visit your local pet shop most if not all of the "rat" cages they have will actually NOT be well suited for rats at all. Sadly pet shops are there to make money, and your random Joe off the street will be more willing to purchase a new pet & a cage from them if it is smaller. So pet shops are going to push smaller cages. They may only actually stock smaller cages even!

    ☆ Some smaller cages are fine for 2 rats.
    ☆ Vertical (tall) cages are better.
    ☆ Ideal bar spacing is 1.5 inches, many cages are often 1 inch and younger, female rats can often easily slip right through the bars and escape.
    ☆ Plastic bottom cages are often a huge mistake. So many rats easily chew right through the cage and escape. Then you are out of the cost of the cage, need to buy a new cage, and now your rat is without a home!

    No you should never ever keep your rat in an aquarium.

    2. Most rat food sold in pet shops is terrible

    Many experienced rat owners prefer to order their rats food online and have it shipped. It is way more cost effective to buy in bulk and it can be harder to find good quality pet food in stores. Some pet stores only carry certain brands and some do not carry the brands we want at all.

    Seed mixes are absolute junk. Often made with chemicals and dyes that are not safe. Cheap ingredients. And are full of rat junk food- most seeds are very fatty and should not be a part of their daily diet but used as a treat. Rats will also just pick through & eat the stuff they like, meaning they will not get a balanced diet.

    3. Pet shop rats may not have been handled often if at all.

    Rats make amazing pets, they bond deeply and can be sweet cuddly love muffins. But (as with any animal) if they have never been loved, handled, or had to deal with people then they will likely be very timid or shy.

    All rats are different and some will easily open up while others may take alot of time, effort and patience to build trust.

    *Another reason I highly suggest buying from a breeder who has handled their rats

    4. Rats are not sit & watch pets

    Rats are very hands on pets. They need alot of attention, play and love. They are much more like a cat or dog in this manner. Yes they live in a cage, but IMO view the cage like your dogs crate/bed/run. They shouldn't be locked up 24/7 or anywhere close to that. They need quite a bit of time outside of their cage.

    5. Yes rats can be destructive.

    All rats are unique but most rats are little destructive brats. If they can chew it, they likely will. See above ^ cages made out of plastic often end up with a hole chewed right through. Hammocks and beds and toys will often also be thoroughly chewed up.

    Rat proofing your room? HA! Goodluck with that, like children they will show you every mistake you made with that. Leave something down? It is filled with holes now. Cords, remotes, clothing and perhaps even well loved items can easily be ruined if left where rats can get to it.

    Also rats are highly intelligent, and born to get into cracks & climb every which way. I have personally seen rats climb up a standing lamp, between a wall and shelf, and jump quite high!

    6. All pets bring with them some odor.

    Some people enjoy or do not mind the natural odor of animals, some can not stand it. But no matter what urine and feces are never going to smell lovely. I don't care what type of pet you have it doesn't smell like roses. My cat's litter box doesn't smell nice.

    Is it bad? It shouldn't be. If properly kept under control and cleaned it should never get a chance to have a strong smell. If your rat cage smells bad it is because you are not properly handling it. *That being said some are more sensitive than others to the smell

    Most rats can have some level of litter box training. Which will help with the smell alot.

    If you are having odor issues:
    ☆ How often are you cleaning the cage? 1-2 times a week is probably ideal for most.
    ☆ Do not do more than spot clean daily. Their cage is their home and should smell like them. If it is too clean it will make matters worse because they will mark it alot more.
    ☆ How large is your cage and how many rats do you have? If your rats cage is too small and/or over crowded it is going to make the smell alot worse.
    ☆ Are you using a litter box? It helps.
    ☆ What type of bedding are you using? Some are much better than others and you may need to change it up.

    7. Health, vet care & short lifespans

    Rats have very short lifespans, 2-3 years is most common. Even knowing this it can still feel far too soon when it eventually happens and you lose your little love.

    On top of short lifes, many rats end up with health issues. Females often have mammary tumors. And many rats develop URIs.

    The most surprising thing though for new rat owners is vet costs. Vet costs can be very high for rats. You will often pay more for rats than you will for dogs or cats. It is hard to give examples as every part of the country will have different price quotes. But in Texas I was looking at paying $85 just for them to see the rat, tumor removal or neutering can cost several hundred to thousands.

    Then we also have to deal with finding a good qualified vet that will even seen rats. It was a pain in the butt finding a really good vet to see my cats, and far less vets will even accept rats and even less have alot of experience working with them!!


    Read my links above for more detailed info on keeping pet rats!



























    Monday, August 31, 2015

    Planned Christmas Litter!

    We are happy to announce the next planned litter!

    ╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮╰☆╮

    DOE:  Sansa (GSQA0-2)





















    BUCK:  Malygos (GSQA0-1)





















    Both are beautiful Blue Hooded, Standard Eared, Standard Coat.

    Their Litter is expected to be ready for their new homes at the beginning of December. Lovely Christmas/Holiday babies!

    If interested please contact me to reserve your babies now!

    Friday, August 21, 2015

    Emotional Support Animals

    I often see in pet groups people asking about service animals, therapy animals and emotional support animals (ESA). Sadly there is alot of misinformation and ignorance on this subject. I'd like to share some knowledge.

    This is US based info.


    First terminology. Each of these terms is sometimes wrongly used interchangeably but they each have a different meaning, different laws, and different uses.

    Service Animals:
    Service animals are either dogs or miniature horses, except within a very few states that legally allow other types of animals. They are trained to perform tasks for someone with a disability. Most commonly known would be dogs for the blind. But service dogs can benefit many disabilities both obvious and invisible such as; diabetic alert, seizure alert, mobility support, helping with PTSD and mental disorders, etc...

    You must be legally disabled to have a service animal. Being legally disabled does not mean you are on disability or can not work. The legal definition of Disabled under the ADA is: a person who has a physical or mental impairment that substantially limits one or more major life activity.

    In order to be a service animal, the animal must be trained in tasks directly related to the person's disability. Comfort or just being with you is not a trained task and therefor does not count.

    A service animal must be well trained, behaved and fully under the handler's control. 

    ONLY service animals are allowed public access. That means the owner is allowed to bring their service animal with them in any business even if it does not allow pets, such as restaurants, grocery stores, etc... What ever is open to the public, the handler and their service animal is allowed. They can not ask you to leave because of allergies, fear of dogs, because of food, etc... They may ask you to leave if your animal is being disruptive or is out of control.

    A business is allowed to ask the handler two questions before admitting them entrance. 1. Is that a service dog? 2. What tasks does it provide?

    Service animals are allowed in no pet housing in most cases, with pet deposits/fees waved, allowed in hotels, and on public transportation and flying.

    Their is no legal registration, certification, ID, or test an animal has to have to be a service animal. The websites you see online that advertise this are all scams. They are taking advantage of people who do not know the law and also giving people who just want to take their pets into public an easy way to fraud the system and fake their pet. People have registered their rocks, killer whales and other silly objects/pets to show how meaningless it really is. These sites are highly frowned upon in the service animal community. Showing a legally meaningless ID or registration to a business, only confuses the public and makes it harder for legit teams.

    Service dogs can be any breed, any size. While vests and patches showing they are a service dog are quite common it is not actually the law that they have to be vested either.

    Service animals can be trained and obtained through organizations or be owner trained.

    A FAQ on Service Animals by the ADA:
    http://www.ada.gov/regs2010/service_animal_qa.html


    SDiT:
    Service Dog in Training. While in training, service animals are NOT covered under the ADA but instead covered in each states laws individually. Some states grant us the same rights to have our SDiT as service dogs others do not. Which means in some states your SDiT is not allowed public access.

    Therapy Animals:
    A therapy animal is an animal trained to provide comfort and support to groups of people in hospitals, nursing homes, retirement homes, schools, and in stressfull situations. They can be a wide variety of animals including: dogs, cats, rabbits, rats, etc... They need some basic training and to be calm, polite and ok with groups of strangers. There are different training and programs in different areas.

    Therapy animals are not meant to work with a single person. They are not allowed in the general public such as stores or restaurants.

    Therapy animals are granted no special privileges towards housing or flying.


    Emotional Support Animals (ESA):
    ESAs are companion pets that provide therapeutic benefit and comfort, such as alleviating or mitigating symptoms of the owner's disability.

    You must be legally disabled to qualify for an ESA. Being legally disabled does not mean you are on disability or can not work. The legal definition of Disabled under the ADA is: a person who has a physical or mental impairment that substantially limits one or more major life activity.

    Many disabilities can benefit from an ESA, though most commonly used with mental or psychiatric disabilities.

    ESAs require NO special training, though basic training is important for any pet. They are for comfort only and do not need to be task trained.

    Unlike service animals, ESAs have NO public access. They are considered pets and still only allowed in public where normal pets are allowed.

    ESAs are allowed in most housing, even in no pet housing. Pet deposit/fees are waived. They are also allowed to fly with their owners.

    In order to get an ESA you must attain a letter/prescription from your doctor stating that you are disabled and in need of an emotional support animal.

    Their is no legal registration, certification, ID, or test an animal has to have to be an ESA. The websites you see online that advertise this are all scams. They are taking advantage of people who do not know the law and also giving people who just want to take their pets into public an easy way to fraud the system and fake their pet. People have registered their rocks, killer whales and other silly objects/pets to show how meaningless it really is. These sites are highly frowned upon in the service animal community. Many of these sites FALSELY claim that you can bring your ESA everywhere with you. This is not true. Your ESA does not need a vest or ID for any purpose.

    An ESA can be just about any animal. There are dogs, cats, ferrets, rabbits, rats, snakes, etc... Know that depending on your choice of animal, housing and planes can still deny you as it may not be a reasonable accommodation. ie if my ESA is a cow.

    If you own your own home or live in pet friendly housing, and have no plans to ever fly having an ESA is completely moot. It is just a pet outside of those two areas.


    ADA:
    The ADA is the Americans with Disabilities Act. It is a civil rights legislation that prohibits discrimination and guarantees that people with disabilities have the same opportunities as everyone else.

    The ADA ONLY relates to service animals, granting the owners/handler's rights to have their service animal accompany them.
    http://www.ada.gov/ada_intro.htm


    FHA:
    The FHA is the Federal Housing Administration, it is a government agency that covers housing laws. The FHA relates to both service animals and emotional support animals and even considers both the same under assistance animals.

    This grants us rights to have our service animal or emotional support animal in our housing, even if it is no pets housing. It also waves any pet deposit or pet fees. We are still responsible for any damage our animals do. 

    Our animals also need to be well behaved, no loud barking, always leashed and under our control. We must also clean up after our dogs.

    In order to have our service animal or ESA with us, we first need to request reasonable accommodation. We may have to show proof of need as in a letter from our doctor stating we are under their care, we are disabled, and we are in need of a service animal/ESA.

    There are some exceptions.
    1.Buildings with four or fewer units where the landlord lives in one of the units.
    2.Private owners who do not own more than three single family houses, do not use real estate brokers or agents, and do not use discriminatory advertisements.
    3. Hotels and Motels are considered public access instead of dwellings. They are covered under the ADA & not the FHA, so service dogs are allowed but ESAs are not.

    There can also be species and breed restrictions. Reasonable Accommodation, means just that. If an animal can not be reasonably kept because of its species or causes undue burden they can deny it.
    This also goes for dog breed restrictions as it relates to insurance. For example if your service dog or ESA is a breed that is often denied and the insurance company would raise or deny coverage, then they may deny you. This is something to consider when choosing your breed if you rent.

    http://servicedogcentral.org/content/node/460
    http://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/HUD?src=/states/shared/working/r10/fh/questions
    https://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/documents/huddoc?id=servanimals_ntcfheo2013-01.pdf



    Air Travel
    Both service animals and ESAs are allowed to fly with their owners in the cabin with no charge or fees. This is not covered by the ADA but instead the ACAA (Air Carrier Access Act).

    If your service animal is a PSD (psychiatric service dog) or an ESA than you need a doctors letter in order to fly. They do not always ask for it, but without this letter they CAN deny you access.

    This letter must contain:
    • must not more than one year old
    • must be on the professional's letterhead
    • must be from a mental health professional  
    They can also deny certain species for safety reasons. If your animal is causing a disruption or not under your control, they can and will remove you.

    http://servicedogcentral.org/content/ESA-flying
    http://www.iaadp.org/airline.html


    Ethics:
    Sadly alot of people fake Service Dogs and even ESAs. They selfishly want to take their pets everywhere with them and/or think it is a victimless crime.

    The truth is that it DOES actually cause great harm to the disabled who actually need them.

    People often bring ill-mannered, out of control pets to public.

    We are often blind to how well behaved or lack thereof our pets actually are. So we think fluffy is just being cute but they are actually causing a disruption.

    This makes business want to fight against service dogs being allowed, causes real service dog teams being denied access, and causes the general public to think that service dogs are just "pets" and are not truly needed by their owners.

    Can you imagine just trying to live your life and have a nice day out with your family. But instead of having a nice meal at your favorite restaurant, they refuse to allow you to enter because of your real service dog. The employees make a large embarrassing scene and it ruins your entire day. <-- this happens far too often.

    Many pets are not friendly or too friendly towards other animals. Your dog pulling on the leash, lunging, whining, barking or growling at a real service dog team is rude, disrespectful and can cause serious damage to the dog and the owner.
    Dog attacks, even if no one is physically harmed can cause serious mental and emotional issues in dogs.

    It can also cause the service dog to be distracted so they miss an alert to their owner. Missing an alert can literally mean their owners life!
    https://www.thedodo.com/why-you-should-never-pet-a-service-dog-1225435298.html

    Faking a service animal makes it so much harder for legit teams. It causes businesses and the general public to see everyone as fakers and push for more restrictive laws, making it much harder for the disabled who really need service animals to get them.

    It also causes an ugly backlash against legit teams. I have seen for myself how rude the public and businesses can be. A legit service dog team will be illegally kicked from a business. When they push the issue and the media finds out, the business has attacked them calling them a faker. The public jumps on board saying that no one needs a service dog, that they are a faker, that they do not "look or seem" disabled (which is just another slap in the face for someone disabled), people have even been threatened and attacked online over this!

    Would you park in a disabled parking spot?
    Would you fake being in a wheel chair?

    I also often see people giving support and acknowledgement to veterans. But many veterans suffer from PTSD and are in need of service dogs. Faking is not only disrespectful to them but actually hurting them!


    Faking for housing...
    I often see see posts from people saying how they have to get rid of their beloved pet because they are moving into no pet housing or their landlord found out about the pet they were not supposed to have. And everytime someone will speak up and say just make it a service dog/ESA and you can keep it!!

    NO! Stop right there! An ESA or Service Dog is not a free pet ticket.

    Again this also hurts the disabled who truly need them. It causes alot of landlords to be very frustrated and hesitant towards legit service dog/ESA teams. Perhaps even turning them down for housing "for other reasons" just because they are sick of fakers or think they are a faker.

    Is it ethical? NO.
    It is selfish and disrespectful to fake being disabled just to keep a pet.



    How does this relate to rats?

    Ok so you may ask, "Can my pet rat be a service animal?"

    1. Are you legally disabled and in need of a service animal?

    2. Do you live in one of the very few states that allow animals other than a dog or miniature horse to be a service animal?

    3. In what way can a rat be task trained to help your disability, keeping in mind that comfort or just being there does not count?

    IMHO, the answer is NO, rats can not be service animals.
    Rats are incredibly intelligent. But I have a good understanding of most tasks that can be trained for disabilities and I can not see a rat being able to do any of them besides possibly fetching items but their size would seriously limit this ability.


    "Can my rat become an ESA (emotional support animal)?"

    1. Are you legally disabled and in need of comfort from a pet?

    Yes! Rats can make lovely ESAs.

    But things to keep in mind:

    Rats should always be kept in groups and this may cause issues with some housing and their view of reasonable accommodation. I have seen this actually happen quite a few times, often in dorms. Where the housing does not want to allow multiple rats. It can be a fight and should be considered.

    Attempting to fly with rats, even as an ESA could be troublesome to convince the airline to allow them.

    Remember ESAs have no public access. You can not take them shopping with you, you can not take them out to dinner, or in any public place that does not allow pets.


    If you are disabled and in need of an ESA and would like your rat or other pet to become one, the first thing you need to do is talk to your doctor or therapist. Have them confirm you are disabled and discuss that you feel the need for an ESA. If they agree, you will want them to write a letter for you.

    An example letter that I have used:

    (On your doctors letterhead)
    My name & address
    Date

    To whom it may concern,
    (your name) is a patient under my care. I am intimately familiar with her/his medical history and the functional limitations imposed by their disability.  She/he meets the definition of disabled under the Americans with Disability Act, Fair Housing Act, and the Rehabilitation Act of 1973.

    Due to her/his disability, (your name) has certain limitations. In order to alleviate these difficulties, and to enhance her ability to live independently, I support (your name)'s decision to obtain and keep an emotional support animal. An emotional support animal will help to mitigate her/his disability, improve independence and quality of life.

    Please allow (your name) to be accompanied by her emotional support animal in the cabin of the aircraft, in accordance with the Air Carrier Access Act (49 U.S.C. 41705 and 14 C.F.R. 382).

    If you have any further questions, please feel free to call me at my office number.

    Sincerely,

    (your doctor's signature)




    Have any questions about service animals or ESAs?
    Want advice/help on getting a service animal or ESA?
    I would be happy to answer any questions I can or try to point you in the right direction. Leave a comment or reach me under contact me link!












     
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